A review of places to lunch in the Triangle
"..In the deep South, old timers still call the midday meal “dinner,” and it remains the most important meal of the day. As in many European countries, it is followed by the most civilized of customs, a nap. It’s a proven fact that people from cultures that support an extended lunch are happier and live longer than stressed-out American workaholics.
We have something to learn from the places that still enjoy a guiltless comida, dejeuner or pranzo. We, too, can choose to abandon a compulsive work ethic, look past the perfectly good jar of peanut butter, round up a friend and savor a leisurely midday meal at our favorite restaurant … before that restaurant abandons us."
Lunch with Ambiance
Feeding the eye and the palate.
An (Cary)
The Blue Ridge at the North Carolina Art Museum (Raleigh)
Fins (Raleigh)
Herons at the Umstead (Cary)
Midtown (North Hills)
The Nasher Café at the Nasher Art Museum (Durham)
Parizade (Durham)
Spice Street (Chapel Hill)
Top of the Hill (Chapel Hill)
Vivace (Raleigh)
Business Lunch
The best way to seal a deal.
Bentley’s (Cary)
Caffé Luna (Raleigh)
Carolina CrossRoads (Chapel Hill)
Duck and Dumpling (Raleigh)
Glenwood Grill (Raleigh)
The Mecca (Raleigh)
18 Seaboard (Raleigh)
Tupelo’s (Hillsborough)
The Fairview at the Washington Duke Hotel (Durham)
Winston’s Grille (Raleigh)
Lunch and Shop
These eateries either have a store attached or are within a short walking distance of retail stores.
Azitra (Raleigh)
blu seafood and bar (Durham)
Bella Monica (Raleigh)
Nordstrom Café Bistro (Durham)
Neo-China (Durham, Raleigh, Cary)
Gianni & Gaitano’s (Raleigh)
Midtown (Raleigh)
Nofo (Raleigh)
Weathervane (Chapel Hill)
Zest (Raleigh)
Lunch Escape
For a leisurely European-style meal.
Il Palio (Chapel Hill)
Rue Cler (Durham)
Saint-Jacques (North Raleigh)
Bistro 76 (Raleigh)
Nikos Taverna (Morrisville)
Papa’s Grille (Durham)
Piedmont (Durham)
Xios Authentic Greek Cuisine (Apex)
411 West Italian Café (Chapel Hill)
518 West Italian Café (Raleigh)
Exotic Lunch
Curry, tamales, pad Thai and sushi
Akai Hana (Chapel Hill)
Azitra (Raleigh)
Chosun OK (RTP)
Jibarra (Raleigh)
Jujube (Chapel Hill)
Mura (North Raleigh)
Red Palace (Raleigh)
Sitar India Palace (Durham)
Sono (Fayetteville St., Raleigh)
Thai Café (Durham)
Twisted Noodles (Durham)
Fast Lunch
Immediate gratification via buffet, counter service or drive-up window
Char-Grill (Raleigh)
The Roast Grill (Raleigh)
Saffron (Morrisville)
Sara’s Empanada’s (RTP)
Serena American Restaurant (RTP)
George’s Garage (Durham)
Mad Hatter (Durham)
Dalat Oriental Café and Deli (Raleigh)
Neomonde Bakery and Deli (Raleigh and Morrisville)
Whole Foods Market buffet (Chapel Hill, Raleigh, Durham)
Comfort Lunch
’Cue and Fried Chicken
Allen & Son Barbecue (Chapel Hill)
Big Ed’s (Raleigh)
Bon’s (Chapel Hill)
Bullock’s Barbecue (Durham)
The Barbecue Joint (Chapel Hill)
Hawg Wild Smoke House & Grill (Cary)
Mama Dip’s Traditional Country Cooking (Chapel Hill)
Q Shack (Durham, Raleigh)
The Pit (Raleigh)
Rub’s Smokehouse (RTP)
SPECIAL EVENTS FOR FOODIES
Spring is busting out all over with food and wine events benefiting good causes. Make plans now for:
A Taste of the Triangle, March 8 — “The ultimate food and wine extravaganza” benefits the Tammy Lynn Foundation. Call 919-832-3909 for information.
Taste of the Beach, March 6-9 — A weekend of events, cooking classes and incredible meals on the Outer Banks. For information, link to www.obxtasteofthebeach.com.
Blue Ridge Food & Wine Festival, April 10-13 — Wine tasting, vintners’ dinners, cooking classes and a chefs’ cooking challenge in Blowing Rock. For more information, go to www.blueridgewinefestival.com or call 877-295-7965.
Beaufort Wine & Food Weekend, April 23 -27 — Celebrity chefs, dinners, wine tastings and dancing. Call 252-728-5225 or go to www.beaufortwineandfood.com.
R.I.P. - FRESH GRAVES IN THE CULINARY CEMETERY
Several Triangle dining establishments shut their doors by the end of 2007. They will be missed.
The Rathskeller
The last remnant of the Danziger era bit the dust after 60 years in downtown Chapel Hill. Its closing came as a shock, yet not really a surprise, for diners who had noticed a decline in quality over the past few years. On what turned out to my last visit a few months ago, the famous Gambler hanger steak was tough, the peas overcooked and the expected generous pile of sautéed onions had dwindled down to a spoonful. But the sweet tomato salad dressing on iceberg lettuce tasted exactly the same as it did 30 years ago — as did the frosty mug of Bud, and the funky atmosphere had blessedly never been face-lifted.
Underground, not the most auspicious of names, is now six feet under. Low visibility and a small plate concept just didn’t attract enough of Charlie Goodnight’s patrons in spite of gifted Chef Daniel Taylor’s impressive tapas. Goodnight owners Brad and Shannon Reeder will transform the space into The Old Bar Restaurant.
Starlu’s closing is another instance where the talent and amiability of Chef Sam Poley and an attractive setting couldn’t overcome an awkward Durham location.
JK’s, North Hills’ second restaurant to close (after Savannah) makes way for another steakhouse, Ruth’s Chris, which will open its second Raleigh eatery this spring.
Nana’s Chophouse closed in November, now replaced by The Pit, the new ‘it’ hangout in downtown Raleigh.
Taverna Nikos, longtime anchor of Durham’s Brightleaf Square, shut its doors last year. But there’s good news … it will be revived next month under the direction of a new chef, Giorgios Kastanias.
Flying Burrito, a 20-year-old Chapel Hill favorite, has been deserted for months but will undergo reincarnation under new management by this summer.
Verde, one of George Bakatsias’ Durham establishments hasn’t exactly died, just morphed into a different concept and renamed Vita. Pizzas, pasta and other classic Italian dishes have replaced Verde’s American contemporary menu.
The much-anticipated Revolution Restaurant should open by mid-May 2008 in the old Baldwin Building in downtown Durham. Meanwhile, chef/owner Jim Anile (formerly of Il Palio) and partner Teresa Anile are available to cater private events. To contact the Aniles, visit www.revolutionrestaurant.com/community.
NIBBLES
Nancy McDermott, author of Southern Cakes, appeared recently at Quail Ridge Books for a book signing and a cake baking contest. It was my honor to join prolific cookbook writers Jean Anderson, Debbie Moose and Fred Thompson in judging the cakes. Between bites, I got the skinny on their latest projects. Debbie is putting the last touches on Wings; Fred, the poor thing, is working hard tasting for his latest book, Bourbon; and Jean’s article on Vietri founders, Susan and Frances Gravely, (both from Chapel Hill), will be out in More magazine this spring.
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Jean was raving about a new restaurant in Clayton, Festejos Mexican Bar & Grill, owned and operated by the Flores family from San Diego. “A different kind of Mexican restaurant, well worth driving all the way from Chapel Hill for a meal there,” Jean promised.
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Kim Sunée, co-editor of Cottage Living’s food section, along with Durham’s Sara Foster, will be at Quail Ridge for a reading of her new book, Trail of Crumbs: Hunger, Love, and the Search for Home on Tuesday, March 11. Kim is a regular visitor to our area and has featured many local chefs and cookbook writers — among them, Bill Smith, Marcie Cohen Ferris and Karen Barker — in the magazine.
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For authentic crawfish étouffée, gumbo and cochon de lait, head straight to the brand new Papa Mojo’s Roadhouse at Greenwood Commons near RTP. Newly arrived from Lafayette, LA, “the zydeco chef,” Mel Melton, brings authentic South Louisiana cuisine and his own harmonica music to the Triangle. Link to www.papamojosroadhouse.com for information. Be warned — you may need earplugs when opening this Web site.
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Pie lovers will appreciate Scratch Seasonal Artisan Baking (www.piefantasy.com). For $60 a month, you get one large or three small pies each week for four weeks. Made by Phoebe Lawless, Karen Barker’s right hand at Magnolia Grill, Scratch’s pies, cakes and custom desserts are made from the best local ingredients available. Moore Square Farmers Market regulars will be familiar with Lawless’ desserts, sold there throughout the market season.
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In Cameron Village, Nelsons, renovated in 2006, is now open only Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings for the late-night crowd. Owners plan to re-open for lunch and dinner in early March under its former name, Foster’s.
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Mobil Travel Guide, originator of the prestigious Mobil Star ratings and certifications, has bestowed its prestigious four-star rating to three Triangle restaurants: Carolina CrossRoads at The Carolina Inn, Chapel Hill; Herons at the Umstead in Cary; and Fearrington House in Pittsboro.
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The Chapel Hill Restaurant Group (who brought us 518 West, Squid’s, Spanky’s, and 411West) will open a new gourmet eatery on Page Road just off Interstate 40 called Mez Contemporary Mexican Restaurant. The first Triangle “Certified Green Restaurant,” Mez will offer south of the border specialties made from fresh local ingredients and will feature outdoor dining. It should be open for lunch and dinner by mid-spring.
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In downtown Chapel Hill this season, restaurants are popping up like daffodils. Scheduled to open this month: Baba Ghannouj Mediterranean Bistro, Buns (gourmet burgers), The Crunkleton Bar (which will showcase and sell the artwork and furniture inside the business), and Cluck University Chicken.
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Wake Tech’s culinary school will send six students to France in March for a life-changing experience. The students will work in a restaurant, spend a day with a starred chef, tour a cheese-making facility and enjoy a weekend in Paris. The trip is subsidized in part by participants in a five-course “American Classics” dinner held at Enoteca Vin, which raised nearly $3000 for the project. While Lycée d’Etat Hôtelier du Touquet, a culinary school in Le Touquet, France sends 10 students to work in the Raleigh area each year, this is the first time in five years that a group from Wake Tech will travel to France.
